Rome

We must be getting used to being parents because when we planned this trip to Rome our goals were to a) get there and back without having a nervous breakdown b) drink coffee in a beautiful piazza c) eat some pizza and d) if possible, see a few sights. Not particularly lofty, but then that is perhaps the secret of traveling with kids and everybody having a good time. We ended up seeing, drinking and eating a lot more than we expected, and we kept the kids entertained by riding public transportation, providing lots of gelato at opportune moments and taking lots of piazza breaks so they could chase pigeons, spot cats and run around.

Our two best practical tips were to rent an apartment where the kids had their own bedroom and to walk around everywhere with the stroller and the Ergo baby carrier so that we could lift both kids at once if we had to, like if one was sleeping and the other crying because she had to pee. For example. Here's Adrian demonstrating the Ergo on the Spanish Steps:
Our apartment was pretty funky and we were definitely paying for square footage and location over style. It was a mini 2-bedroom self-catering flat right around the corner from the Vatican above the Ottaviano metro stop and was remarkably quiet. Here are Adrian and the kids having a snack (note the death trap chairs - we had many incidents with those things): We loved the grandeur of everything in Rome after being in Sweden, which is generally sedate in its architecture and attitudes. St. Peter's square and the Basilica were astounding. You can't see it in this picture, but there was a huge nativity scene in the square (1 of about 1,237 in Rome during Christmas) that Ava thought was really cool (see below). Both kids also loved the Explora kids museum that has a mini supermarket, kitchen, post office, bank, and recycling center. At $30 for 2 adults and 1 paying kid it's about as pricey as everything else in Rome (except those ridiculously perfect capuccinos), but it was worth it. Adrian and I both loved the Trevi Fountain because it is so ... audacious and unexpected. On the night we were there it had this great, happy party atmosphere. Everyone seemed so pleased to be there, just like we were, taking pictures, blowing bubbles and eating ice cream, despite the 40-degree weather. We didn't make it into a single museum with the kids, and the only reason I'm not feeling guilty about it is because I know Adrian and I will have plenty of trips back to Rome where we can spend quiet hours in contemplation of Raphael's sculptures. And I'll bet on those trips we'll miss chasing pigeons with the kids on the Piazza del Popolo and watching Julian toddle down the alleys of Trastevere in his fleece cap yelling "car! car!" or "dog-u! dog-u!" every 2 seconds.